Day 5: Here Comes the Sun

Oh, what a feeling.... a whole night and all day rain free!

We started today practically dry...all the way down to our toes. I'm sure this is kind of a 'grass is always greener on the other side of the fence" sort of thing. When you are always wet, being dry is just about the best thing ever. There is probably some boyscout hiking around Philmont right now who is hoping for wet socks just as badly as we want dry ones. Well, maybe not that exactly.

Although our routine doesn't change much every morning, we were somehow up, ready, and on the water by about eight. That is our earliest start yet. Our plan was to head to a camp on Sturgeon Lake and hang out there for a layover. Drew planned that in so we'd be guaranteed our 100 miles (probably closer to 120). The camp is out of our direct route to Atikokan, but we have plenty of time. Unfortunately, there was a strong northwest wind, which would have meant paddling miles across the lake with waves hitting us broadside the whole way. Go figure...nobody thought that was a good idea, including Drew. We replanned the route for today, but that means we'll have to be creative in finding a path to get our 100 miles in. Our detours are limited by the maps we brought. Not a good idea to wander past the boundaries of those, especially since we are in parts of the Quetico that Drew hasn't been to before either.

We paddled until around 3:30, passing several campsites until we ended up at a great site on an island on Twin Lake. We were careful picking a location that we could stay at for the extra day (that is, no TNP islands for an extended stay). After today's paddling, we're sitting around 70 miles total, so even with a layover we'll have three days to cover thirty miles. Even if the weather doesn't cooperate those are going to be pretty light days. Honestly, our crew could cover more than 125 miles if we had the maps and open water left to do it in. Nobody wants to go in circles just to claim distance. It will be nice not have pack up, haul, and paddle everything for a day.

As I write, Alex is fishing (like he does every night) and just landed another nice bass. Probably about 15-16 inches. We had dinner, but Zach is going to filet it so we can cook it up and everyone can have a taste of fresh fish. Most of the kids aren't big fish eaters, but every one said they were excited to try. Not that whatever pretends to be meat in the MRE packets isn't a treat, but nobody is going to turn down having some fresh caught bass, even just a couple bites. Encouraged by Al's success, Charlie and Sam improved their luck and came up with a few more fish to add to our total. Charlie pulled in an 11 inch walleye and Sam got a bass that rivaled the one I caught earlier in the week. Neither ones were keepers, but that didn't seem to matter to our successful anglers.

Mike and I were hanging out watching the boys fish when we heard the most amazing sound. Wolves howling in the distance (well, we hope it is the distance). At home we have coyotes, but that is nothing compared to this. Its different than I imagined, but unmistakeable at the same time. A haunting sound. All things considered, it is a bit reassuring to be on an island tonight. (Hmm, how far do wolves swim?).

The wolves quieted down almost as quickly as they began and the silence rushed back in to fill the space. As a loon flew overhead, its beating wings were easily heard, sounding like a distant helicopter. It could only be more breathtaking if some night the high clouds would clear to let the stars shine through. It is hard to feel overly significant when surrounded by so much quiet beauty.

So what lesson for today? I'd have to say that its a humbling experience to spend a day with no distractions except the quiet splash of a paddle and the soulful call of the wolves. Our everyday lives are as hard to imagine out here, as this experience is to understand from afar. (OK, so if that's sounding too philosophical, the high pitched whine of the swarms of mosquitos looking for an opening in the netting of our tent does ruin the mood a bit.)

Layover day tomorrow. Hard to believe but a little rest from all this relaxation is sounding pretty good.