Monday, August 17, 2009

Day 8: Starry, Starry nights

Starry, starry nights.....almost.

The winds finally died down about the time we all went to bed. Actually not a coincidence that we head to bed at dusk or when the wind stops blowing because as soon as the sun starts setting, the mosquito's converge on any warm-blooded creature unfortunate enough to be outdoors. Without the wind to keep them at bay, its run for cover or be bled dry. We didn't actually miss any stunning night sky views, as the clouds have an uncanny way of showing up just as the sun dips below the horizon. The clear sky at dusk had us all fooled, but the cloud cover gathered just in the nick of time. So close...

It was easy to tell tonight that everyone is ready to head home, ... and pretty well tired out. Our trek today was very short, ...only about 10 or 11 miles. However, it seemed even shorter because we didn't battle any headwinds. A simple paddle, albeit a roundabout route. We left our camp about 8 am, and were in setting up in our last site in time for lunch. It is amazing at how much distance our crew can cover, even when we are taking our time.

We're spending our last afternoon relaxing on a point of land that looks like a long sandy beach, but is actually a huge outcropping of solid stone gently sloping into the water. Charlie caught two mid-size bass. Not to be outdone, Al caught a 27 inch northern pike, ...twice. The dumb fish wasn't back in the water fifteen minutes when Al hauled it in a second time. The rest of our crew was busy soaking up the sun on our 'beach', some playing cards and others dozing on the warm stone. Overall, our crew is happy with our trip and our progress, and everyone feels like we've accomplished our goals while still having time to slow down and enjoy our surroundings.

Tomorrow we have a short paddle to the ranger's station for pick-up. Unfortunately, there's no way to paddle directly in to the Atikokan base. We'll put in about five or six miles, which really isn't much more than an hour or so paddling time. By then, we'll have earned our 100-mile patches, and the even more coveted Ely-to-Atikokan patch. Lots of folks earn the mileage awards, but the cross-Quetico trip isn't as common. I think we all feel proud of having made that special trip.

Some of the fun of going from base to base is the part our crew played in a traditional competition between the two sites. When we were gathering our equipment back in Ely, Drew met us at our boats carrying a child's plastic ride-on pony. In honor of the pack mule most of our scouts had a Philmont last year, we named it "Eugie" (short for "Eugene"). Apparently, there is a traditional competition to see which base ends up with the pony at the end of the season. It sort of works like 'Old Maid'. Whichever base has it at the end of the season loses. We're pretty intent on making sure Eugie ends his summer in Atikokan. It was a funny sight to see one of our canoes loaded up with gear, with Eugie tied proudly above it all like a figurehead on an old schooner.

We had our most spectacular eagle sighting today. As we rounded a corner, hugging the shoreline, an eagle launched itself into the air from an old log in the water. It flew across the lake a short ways to land in a tall tree on the shore. Paddling as quietly as we could, we approached to within about twenty yards of the tree before it stretched its wings and flew off. I think that brings our total to five eagle sightings. I'm not sure I'll ever get tired of seeing those wonderful birds soaring overhead. Amazing.

Weather permitting, we'll head out early tomorrow for our pick-up. We hope to be in Rogert base by lunchtime. A mid-afternoon shower (and by that I mean the kind involving hot water and soap, not a midday rainy drizzle), sounds like the greatest thing ever. Possibly better than dry socks. (Well, the best thing for me is looking forward to calling Sue and telling her a few of the details of this grand adventure.)

Tonight we're having our last macaroni, sauce, and government-certified-meatlike-MRE mixture. Yum. Early in the trip Mike and figured out a sure fire way to motivate a group of teenage boys to keep moving towards a goal. And after nine days of trail food, no goal is nearly so enticing as a promised trip to the "Ely Steakhouse" for lunch on our way back through town before meeting up with our sister crew. I think they'd charbroil Mike and I if we even think of changing lunch plans. We wouldn't actually have to go back through Ely, but we're giving Drew a ride back from Atikokan. We hit it off pretty well with Drew and the guys are looking forward to hanging out with him a bit longer on the return trip.

As we end our last night in the Quetico, everyone seems to be quietly saying their goodbyes yet hanging on to the experience a little longer into the evening than usual. The boys are hanging out on the beach, braving exsanguination to talk and laugh as the sun sets and the mosquito's organize their final hunting party. The sunset was spectacular, even if the stars and northern lights are nowhere to be seen. We're ready for the comforts of everyday life, but at the same time lingering in the deepening dusk just as long as possible.

True, I'm happy to be heading home tomorrow. But I can't think of a single a moment of these last eight days that I'd trade away. Its a rare opportunity to share in this experience with my sons, and I'll treasure each memory for a lifetime. This trip did not meet my expectations....it exceeded them in every way imaginable.

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